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Annual Conference
DRESS & GENDER
Friday 2nd and Saturday 3rd July 2004
This years CHODA conference seeks to re-visit the relationship between dress and gender in history, a line of scholarly inquiry that benefits from increasingly sophisticated and nuanced research.
The programme offers both theoretical studies and object-based presentations, with some papers that engage with both methodologies. Topics to be addressed include: the sartorial performance and display of masculinity and femininity; the place of gender in consumerism and the feminization of fashion; and the gendered framework of the clothing trades, including the participation of women as makers and suppliers. These papers draw on a wide variety of disciplinary approaches and address a range of issues, revealing a scope and breadth that speaks to the rich scholarly appeal of this important topic.
The conference will appeal to anyone who is interested in the intersections of dress and gender, including those studying or researching any aspect of dress history.
Please address all enquiries to:
Dr. Sophie White, Conference Chair,
Gender Studies Program
University of Notre Dame
325 OShaughnessy Hall
Notre Dame, IN 46617; USA
Email: white.131@nd.edu
CONFERENCE PROGRAMME:
Friday 2 July 2004
10.00 Registration and coffee
10.45 Welcome
SESSION 1: PERFORMING GENDER
11.00
Masque-ulinities: Changing Dress as a Display of Masculinity in the Superhero Genre
Dr. Friedrich Weltzien, Freie Universität Berlin
11.30
Oriental Chic in the Colonial World: the Roles of Dress and Gender in the Orientalist Narratives of Pierre Loti
Dr. Hélène de Burgh, University of Melbourne
12.00
Julia Thecla's Sartorial Masquerade as an Act of Resistance in the Art World
Dr. Joanna Gardner-Huggett, DePaul University
12.30 Discussion
Chair: Dr. Sophie White, University of Notre Dame, CHODA
12.45 Lunch
SESSION 2: POLICING THE BODY
14.15
Sight, Sin and Sexuality in Sixteenth-Century Huguenot France
Dr. Graeme Murdock, University of Birmingham
14.45
Men Challenging Men: Storm Troopers, Uniforms and Bourgeois Taste in the Nazi 'Revolution' of the 1920s
Dr. Madeleine Hurd, Södertörn College
15.15 Tea
16:00
Dress and Gender in Central East European Socialist Countries, 1949-1959
Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion
16.30 Discussion
Chair: Dr. Margaret Scott, Courtauld Institute of Art, CHODA
17.15 CHODA AGM - all members welcome
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Saturday 3 July 2004
10.00 Registration and coffee
10.30 Welcome
SESSION 3: MASCULINITIES
10.45
Tightly Tied Men: Corset-Constructed Masculinity in the Nineteenth Century
Dr. Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch, Niederrhein University
11.15
John Chute, Esq. and the Suits at The Vyne: An English Gentleman's Dress and Masculinity
Daniel Claro, University of Delaware
11.45
The Art of Walking: Mobility, Gender and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century
Dr. Giorgio Riello, London School of Economics / Victoria & Albert Museum;
Dr. Peter McNeil, University of New South Wales
12.15 Discussion
Chair: Professor Christopher Breward, Victoria & Albert Museum and London College of Fashion
12.30 Lunch
SESSION 4: WOMEN AND CONSUMERISM
14.00
Accessorizing the Renaissance: Female Luxury Artisans in the Florentine Marketplace
Dr. Carole Collier Frick, Southern Illinois University
14.30
An Embarassment of Riches: Clothing, Fashion Culture and Mortified Women in the Later Eighteenth Century
Chloe Wigston Smith, University of Virginia, CHODA
15.00 Tea
15:45
Fashion Discourse in 'Les Modes parisiennes' and 'Les Chroniques parisiennes' in the July Monarchy in France
Dr. Hazel Hahn, Seattle University
16.15
"U R a Naughty Boy Go 2 My Room": Meaning Matters in Girls' and Women's T-shirts
Dr. Agnès Rocamora, London College of Fashion
16.45 Discussion
Chair: Professor Aileen Ribeiro, Courtauld Institute of Art, CHODA
17.00 Close
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